- Bangor & Aroostook – BL2, E7A, F3A & F3B, GP7, GP9, GP38, SW9
- Belfast & Moosehead Lake – GE70
- Boston & Maine – FTA & FTB
- Central Vermont
- Guilford Diesel Locomotives
- Maine Central
- Rutland – RS-1, RS-3
Diesel Cab Units
Diesel Switchers
Road Switchers
- ALCO RS-1
- ALCO RS-2 & RS-3
- ALCO RS-11
- ALCO Century 420
- ALCO Century 424
- ALCO C425
- EMD GP7 & GP9
- EMD GP18 (BM, ST)
- EMD GP35
- EMD GP38
- EMD GP38-2
- EMD GP39-2
- EMD GP40
- EMD GP40-2
- EMD SD35
- EMD SD39
- EMD SD45
- GE U18B ‘Baby Boats’
- GE U23B
- GE U25B
- MLW M420 (AGR 200, 206)
Sort:
http://www.trainweb.org/trains/MECROS.HTM
Wheels
Atlas > Kato (932090 – Low Profile Geared Wheelset Pointed Axle Off/Gear 6pcs)
Detailing
Detail – antenna – Firecracker, Sinclair, Whip
Handrails
One of the biggest visual weaknesses of many N scale diesel locomotives is the handrails. Factory-supplied plastic mouldings are usually far too thick. What should be something close to a 50 mm (2 in) pipe in real life ends up looking more like a scaffold pole. They are also often overscale in their spacing and lack the delicacy of the real thing. This is unfortunate, because handrails run the length of a locomotive and dominate its appearance. Even on an otherwise well-detailed model, chunky handrails can ruin the overall aesthetic.
A further issue is colour. Lighter shades such as yellow or white exaggerate thickness, making handrails appear even heavier than they are. Darker colours, particularly black, tend to disguise bulk and look closer to scale. For this reason, many modellers find yellow or white plastic handrails the most visually jarring of all.
A common solution is to replace the factory parts with wire handrails. Phosphor bronze wire in 0.2 mm (0.008 in) or 0.25 mm (0.010 in) diameter is ideal. It is finer than the plastic, yet stiff enough to hold shape and resist accidental bends. Brass or even steel (piano wire) can also be used, but phosphor bronze strikes the best balance of strength and workability.
For stanchions, the long-standing option was Gold Medal Models GMM-160-32 Diesel Locomotive Stanchions, which provided 150 etched brass stanchions in five styles. Unfortunately, Gold Medal Models ceased trading in 2022, and these frets are now only available second-hand. Hopefully, a new supplier will step in to fill the gap.
One practical alternative is to form your own stanchions from heavier wire and solder them directly to the handrail. This avoids the difficulty of fabricating tiny eyelets and the scarcity of etched parts.
- Wire choice: Use 0.3–0.4 mm (0.012–0.015 in) phosphor bronze or brass.
- Forming the stanchion: Cut short lengths and bend an “L” at the top. The short leg of the “L” rests against the handrail wire.
- Soldering: Tin both parts with solder and use a fine-tipped iron with liquid flux. Touch the joint lightly to bond the stanchion to the handrail. A tiny spot of solder is enough.
- Mounting: Drill holes in the sill (#80 or smaller) for the base of each stanchion. Fix in place with CA or solder if working into brass.
The result is a continuous, durable assembly. The handrail itself has a more realistic thickness, while the soldered stanchions are robust enough to stand up to careful handling. The only real compromise is appearance: the stanchion base lacks the flared or cast detail of etched or moulded parts. Once painted and weathered, however, this is far less obvious and the improvement over factory mouldings is considerable.
Replacing N scale diesel handrails is not a trivial task, but the visual payoff is huge. Whether you use etched stanchions (if you can find them) or soldered wire stanchions of your own, the result is far finer than the factory plastic. Combined with careful paintwork and weathering, wire handrails give a model the right sense of delicacy and proportion that can transform its overall appearance.
- Grab Irons & Ladders
- Drop grabs, straight grabs (BLMA/Atlas/Gold Medal, or scratchbuilt)
- Corner steps and ladder treads (etched vs cast)
- Coupler Cut Levers & MU Hoses
- Wire vs etched cut levers
- MU hoses: rubber, wire, or aftermarket castings
- Lighting & Warning Devices
- Horns (Nathan/K5LA, Leslie, etc.) [BLMA]
- Beacons & Flashers (rotary beacons, strobes, ditch lights, gyra-lights)
- Headlight/Mars light upgrades (especially older units)
- Radio Antenna (Sinclair) [Trainworx]
- Pilots & Coupler Details
- Pilot plates (open vs plated over)
- Trainline air hoses [BLMA]
- Drop steps (etched or scratchbuilt)
- Radiator & Fan Details
- Etched fan grilles (BLMA, Gold Medal, Plano)
- See-through radiator grilles and dynamic brake fans
- Lift rings and roof-top access hatches
- Cab Details
- Sunshades
- Wind deflectors
- Mirrors
- Windshield wipers (etched)
- Fuel Tanks & Underframe
- Air tanks (reshaped or relocated)
- Fuel filler and sight glass
- Speed recorders & pipe
Brake cylinders, piping, and sand lines
Trucks & Running Gear
Sand hoses
Brake rigging
Replacement sideframes or detailing kits
Exhaust & Roof Appliances
Correct exhaust stack shape (e.g. flared vs straight)
Turbo vs non-turbo stacks
Antennas (firecracker, Sinclair, whip)
Cab roof details (AC units, conduit, GPS domes for modern units)
Classification lights plated over vs intact
Safety appliances (ditch lights post-1990s)
Modern FRA reflectors